La Graciosa Hiking – East & West

This hiking adventure starts from the small fishing village of Orzola in the north of the island where you will catch one of the ferries making the 20 minute crossing from Lanzarote to its neighbouring island of La Graciosa. La Graciosa is one of a group of islets making up the ´Chinjio Archipielago´, the others being Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roque del Este and Roque del Oeste. All of the islands make up the largest protected marine reserve in Europe, this also means no hotels and huge tourist areas. The journey is a short one along the northern tip of Lanzarote and across the straight to La Graciosa. This journey can, at times, be choppy along the first part.

The fishing village of Caleta del Sebo is where you will disembark. La Graciosa is free from tarmac roads, the only cars there are 4×4´s which are able to make it along the sandy tracks that criss cross the island. On arrival you will find an array of them available to take passengers to the beaches for a fee which will vary, depending on which side of the island you are looking to reach. Here in the village, you are also able to hire mountain bikes to explore on your own. The island measures 8km x 4km and houses some beautiful secluded beaches.

For us hikers, the walk will begin by turning left as you leave the boat where you will walk along the seafront path past Restaurant Girasol. As you walk along the path from the small port, you will also notice ´Speed River´water taxis which, again, can take visitors around to the beaches at a price of 6 euros, return, per person. On reaching the restaurant, take the track between it and the Cafeteria El Verol which is on your left. You will notice straight away as you walk through the village, that the roads are made of sand with local children running barefoot, a very quiet and tranquil place. As the road takes you out of the village you will pass, on your left, Residencial Graciosamar, offering apartments to rent if you feel like extending your stay further. On passing here, continue out of the village with the school to your right. After the school, take the track to your left heading inland. The trail is, as are most, wide enough to accommodate 4×4 vehicles.

As you walk up this trail, you will notice that the surrounding area is predominantly covered in sand dunes, with small, green shrub plants holding fast in their baron surroundings. To your right as you walk, you will can see Las Agujas, a huge  hill that covers a wide area of the island, looking as though it is made of marble with varying shades of browns, reds and sand coloured whites. You will also see as you proceed, small areas that have been cordened off into small, what look like individual allotments. Here local people have their own places where they are able to cultivate cacti, vegetables and, in some cases, fruit trees. Due to an available irrigation system, they are able to maintain these areas, adding splashes of green to this sand covered landscape.

As you glance over to your right, along the coast, you will catch a glimpse of the only other settlement on the island, Pedro Barba. After 3km of a gradual climb, you will pass a garden with a volcanic wall surrounding it to your right (35 minutes). A glance to your left will offer you a view of Montaña Amarilla, with its rich, yellow and gold colours, standing proud at the southern tip of the island. Take the time to turn backwards here, where  you can see the steep cliffs of the Risco de Famara of Lanzarote and the ominous peak of Monte Corona reaching to 609m.

As the trail reaches its summit, you will be afforded a glimpse of two of the other islands making up the ´Chinijo Archipielago´, Montaña Clara to your front, followed by the larger, and longer, Alegranza. As the track decends down towards the coast, you can stop and appreciate the view, with the crashing waves hitting the coastline below. As the path moves downwards, follow it until you see a trail baring off to the left, indicated by four wooden stumps 4.3km (50 minutes). The ground underfoot turns into one of sand and volcanic stones. Here the trail will guide you along, at sea level, towards the foot of the vibrant red coloured Montaña Bermeja. As you proceed, the ground underfoot will turn into sand, gradually becoming slightly deeper.

The coastal path gradually meanders through sand dunes where scrub plants flourish within them. As you proceed towards the beach, I must say, you will have to stop here to admire the view ahead. Black volcanic rocks at the shoreline, a white sand track leading to the equally white beach ahead, aquamarine waters lapping the shores and the dark, burnt red colour of the face of Montaña Bermeja to your right. Playa Las Conchas is the longest beach on the island and is so named due to the abundance of shells to be found here. Walk to the far end of the beach, 6.2km (1h 15 minutes), and take some time to sit and enjoy your surroundings, admire the view and listen to the therapeutic sound of the waves lapping at the shoreline. Once you have rested, continue up the hill face ahead where a clear track is visible. This short climb is steep and can be a little tough, depending upon the depth of the sand. As you reach the summit, you will see the island of Alegranza ahead of you. Follow the trail as it skirts around the foot of Montaña Bermeja to your right. Underfoot, you will notice that the white sand is now covered with a layer of dark red ´picon´, volcanic ash brought, over time, from the volcano itself.

The track gradually widens, making it accessible to jeeps, and slowly turns inland becoming one of sand again. Cross over the small chain fence ahead, 7.8km (1h 50 minutes), and when the track forks, bear left heading down towards the coast. You will notice here that small wooden posts are embedded into the ground at the sides of the trail with reflectors ontop to guide any cars at night. This track will take you down towards the coast where you will bear right. You will soon find yourself at the onset of a cove where the white sand stretches before you towards a beach. On the distant horizon out to sea you can see the solitary Roque del Oeste. From this beach there is access to the crystal clear ocean. As you walk up this track you will suddenly notice, predominantly to your left along the beach, the abundance of empty shells covering the hard sand surface as far as you can see. As you explore these sand dunes and white beaches, you will hear, on walking across these empty shells, a sound similar to that of walking on freshly fallen snow, a crunching beneath your feet. This track will bear left as you continue along the coastline and when it forks as you reach 12.2km take the left turn down towards the small village of Pedro Barba. As you gradually descend, notice ahead of you a the view back across the ocean, across the straight known as ´The River´, to Orzola along with the imposing cliff face of  Risco de Famara.

You will notice as you walk, a visible narrow path branching off to your right heading through the volcanic stone towards the outskirts of this small settlement. Take this path and head down into the village. It is very pretty here, whitewashed houses sit nestled amoungst palm trees with splashes of colour being given by the Hibiscus plants scattered around. You will soon find yourself on the sand covered sea front walkway which runs along the length of the village. There is a small bay with clear water and a white sandy beach. The water here is extremely calm, and is and ideal place for snorkeling or for a quick swim to cool off. Follow this sea front walk way in a southerly direction now out of village. You will find yourself being shown the route as small volcanic stones have been placed either side of the path. This track gradually becomes stoney underfoot as you begin to ascend up the side of a hill. You will now follow this coastal path along the side of the hillside  as it takes you back towards Caleta del Sebo. You will have a couple more chances as you follow this route, to have a quick dip in the ocean as there are several small coves to your left as you walk, which tend to be deserted. As you descend to sea level, the small track you are on meets a wider one, cross over and continue to follow the one marked with small volcanic stones along the coastline.

You will walk around a small bay, (15km, 3hrs 10 minutes) and find the marbled face of Las Agujas in the distance ahead of you. Bear left and continue along the coast where you are now able to see the outskirts of Caleta del Sebo ahead, with boat masts from the port visible above the buildings. As the trail ends, make your way back through the quiet village with its sandy roads towards the harbour, (3hrs 40 mins, 18km). Here then, you can take time to stop and sit in one of the small bars with a drink or enjoy a quick snack whilst admiring the view back across to Lanzarote and watching the local fishermen arrive back in their small boats, before taking the ferry back yourself.

I hope that you enjoy this walk and the wonderful views and scenery that it offers. If you would like to find out more about me and what I am doing here on the island of Lanzarote and its neighbours then please subscribe to my RSS feed so that you will receive posts as I add them to my blog. You may also feel like trying another walk in Lanzarote, maybe something in the north of the island… Enjoy

Tags: Chinijo Archipielago, La Graciosa